Instructions for One Fell Swoop Quilts (piecing on the quilting system)

One Fell Swoop Quilts – Permanent home for instructions

This will be a permanent page for links to the blog posts specifically related to the “pieced on the machine” instructions…that way you won’t have to scroll through unrelated blog posts or search the archives trying to remember what month the instructions you are looking for are posted in.

Please read ALL instructions carefully.

Guidelines:

https://threadtales.wordpress.com/2010/12/28/some-guidelines-before-we-begin/

Introduction:

https://threadtales.wordpress.com/2010/12/25/a-christmas-gift-for-you/

Chapter 2 –  Basic Strippy Quilt –

https://threadtales.wordpress.com/2011/01/01/chapter-2-finished-seamed-strippy-quilt/

Chapter 3 – Raw edge wavy quilt

https://threadtales.wordpress.com/2011/01/31/chapter-3-ebb-and-flow-quilt-instructions/#comments

Chapter 4 – Piecing One Patch Quilts

https://threadtales.wordpress.com/2011/03/01/chapter-4-charmed-im-sure-instructions/

OFS Quilt #4 – Contemporary Quilt

https://threadtales.wordpress.com/2011/04/17/one-fell-swoop-quilt-4/

BINDING ON YOUR QUILTING SYSTEM

Supplies –

Prepared straight grain binding
Pins
Marking tool if you need to mark your stitching line on the binding

When applying binding on while the quilt is still on the quilting system, I do it after all the quilting is finished. I like to be sure the quilt is relatively square. Some quilters start the binding at the top of the quilt in the center and go down both sides as they quilt. Both ways work. I do not like the extra bulk on the edges of the quilt as I work because I frequently roll the quilt back and forth as I quilt.

Instructions –

Bring your prepared binding to the machine. I use a straight grain binding cut 2 ¼” because I find the straight grain easier to work with for this method and I like a slightly narrower binding than the standard 2 ½” many quilters use.

Note the lower right corner of this quilt is not square. I will make the correction as I apply the binding.

With most of your quilt rolled onto the take-up roller lay your binding on one side (I start on the right side for no particular reason) aligning the raw edge with the outside edge of the quilt. Leaving a tail of about 10” and using the edge of your hopping foot as a guide (if the distance from your needle and the edge of your foot is not the correct measurement you should pre-mark the binding at ¼”from the raw edge using your favorite marking tool) secure your line of stitching and stitch toward the bottom of the quilt stopping ¼” from the bottom.

Flip the binding back to form the fold that will create the miter at the corner.

Fold the binding back over itself and begin stitching at the fold, backstitching to secure your thread. Continue stitching across the bottom edge until you reach the lower left corner. Fold your miter and continue up the left side.

Note – Folding for your mitered corners might feel awkward at first. When you attach binding on a regular sewing machine you always flip UP and then fold DOWN as you turn your quilt. On the quilting system you cannot turn the quilt so you must fold your miters what seems like upside down and sideways.

Stop and secure the stitching approximately 12” from your starting point and remove your quilt from the machine.

Lay the quilt on your cutting surface and trim even with the raw edge of the binding. Be sure to fold the edge of your miter away from the edge of the quilt so as not to accidentally trim off the fold.

Join the binding ends using your favorite method and finish attaching the binding on your regular sewing machine.

Now you can turn your binding by hand or machine!

« A permanent home for instructions…

December 31, 2010 by threadtales | Edit